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Stained glass - all the tools you need

Article Source: http://www.freecraftunlimited.com

Basic Tools
 

Other than a good glass cutter, you'll need the following:
 

  • soldering iron
  • 1 or 2 pairs of pliers
Solder and Flux

You can start with a one-pound spool of solder which is 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead. This combination melts quickly, but produces a strong bond.

Liquid flux is an absolute necessity. You need to brush this fluid on the lead just before soldering each joint. If you don't, the solder won't adhere properly.

There are several kinds of flux, but your best bet is either oleic acid or zinc and ammonium chloride.

Lead

Lead "came" is available in various sizes and shapes. Since you'll probably begin with small pieces of glass, you should purchase came which is no larger than 1/8" (3/32" is preferable, since it's easier to handle and looks nicer on small glass items).

In addition to lengths of came, you will need:

"H" channel
"U" channel

The "H" channel is used as a common border whenever two pieces of glass are butted together. The "U" channel is placed around the outer edges of the entire piece (FIG. 1).

 

Cutting Tools

Naturally, one of the most important aspects regarding quality stained glass creation is having the ability to cut glass properly and with confidence.

The first thing you need is something which w

ill cushion the glass prior to cutting. If you don't have a professional glass mat, a piece of heavy cloth (i.e. velvet), or even cardboard, will work. Velvet is a good choice because it also collects any glass splinters produced during the cutting process.

In preparation, the glass cutter should be lubricated in either kerosene or transmission fluid. Hold the cutter between your first and second fingers with your thumb positioned along its back (see illustration).

Press firmly down on the glass (not too hard) and then pull the cutter toward you in one continuous motion. If done properly, you should hear a slight crackling sound the entire length of the cut. Note: Don't ever go back over the score line. This will not only damage the cutter, it will cause the glass to crack, preventing a nice clean break.

Slip a straight edge (i.e. a plastic ruler) under the glass and just barely behind the score line (FIG. 2). Now press down firmly and confidently. If you're working with a fairly large piece of glass, you can position the score line at the very edge of your table (or work surface). For small and shaped pieces of glass, you can gradually break away the discarded parts with pliers.

The best way to learn how to cut glass accurately is simply to practice doing so. Once you've mastered the basic technique, you can graduate to more intricate shapes and designs.

Precaution: Always were safety glasses!


 

 

 
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